"Kill switch"

[Frankenblob]

In the event that ones EV is "stolen/hijacked..."

What type of kill switch would y'all be lookin at installing - whether store bought - or "home made"? I know some would want to keep their home made kill switches close to their chests, and I repect that.

And is it possible after one jailbroke their EV computer pad could a program be installed that requires a code every start-up then a different one 30 secs INTO the drive to verify user (and if not legit user the car "pulls over and shuts down") and possibly every 1-2-6-12 hours of driving thereafter?

Any suggestions?

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[Cyber_Dav]

In the event that ones EV is "stolen/hijacked..."

What type of kill switch would y'all be lookin at installing - whether store bought - or "home made"? I know some would want to keep their home made kill switches close to their chests, and I repect that.

And is it possible after one jailbroke their EV computer pad could a program be installed that requires a code every start-up then a different one 30 secs INTO the drive to verify user (and if not legit user the car "pulls over and shuts down") and possibly every 1-2-6-12 hours of driving thereafter?

Any suggestions?

I'll just pull out my phone and tell the car to come to me. Or simply stop.

 

[Crissa]

The brake pedal is the kill-switch.

-Crissa

 

[Frankenblob]

The brake pedal is the kill-switch.

-Crissa

Not sure what you mean,or if you understood the statement?

So, if someone carjacks/steals (whether physically or via an internet hack) your EV - and in this case the Cybertruck - and they simply hit the brakes at a stop sign you are saying THAT action of hitting the brake pedal is the "kill switch"?

Or is there a technique on how or how much pressure or... that instigates a "kill switch" mode via the brake pedal?

 

[Crissa]

Pressing the brakes disengages the motor. The brakes are supposed to be stronger than the motor, too.

Hit the brake pedal, hard. The motor will disengage and the brakes will physically engage. The car will stop. Then pull the escape lever and unlatch your passengers, then roll out of the vehicle before it can start up again.

-Crissa

 

[Cyber_Dav]

Pressing the brakes disengages the motor. The brakes are supposed to be stronger than the motor, too.

Hit the brake pedal, hard. The motor will disengage and the brakes will physically engage. The car will stop. Then pull the escape lever and unlatch your passengers, then roll out of the vehicle before it can start up again.

-Crissa

Crissa, I think you are answering a different thread...

 

[Dids]

In the event that ones EV is "stolen/hijacked..."

What type of kill switch would y'all be lookin at installing - whether store bought - or "home made"? I know some would want to keep their home made kill switches close to their chests, and I repect that.

And is it possible after one jailbroke their EV computer pad could a program be installed that requires a code every start-up then a different one 30 secs INTO the drive to verify user (and if not legit user the car "pulls over and shuts down") and possibly every 1-2-6-12 hours of driving thereafter?

Any suggestions?

You would know where the car is via the app on your phone if someone stole it and I read somewhere that you can set a pin at start up. So it would be pretty hard and stupid to steal it.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/cleantechnica.com/2019/08/08/why-is-a-tesla-so-hard-to-steal/amp/

 

[Crissa]

Crissa, I think you are answering a different thread...

They asked what the kill switch was in the event of the car being electronically stolen or hijacked.

It's a situation that has never happened, but that is what you should do. The brake pedal is the kill switch, currently.

If you car is stolen without you in it, well, it dials home, so it'll be traced.

-Crissa

 

[Frankenblob]

You would know where the car is via the app on your phone if someone stole it and I read somewhere that you can set a pin at start up. So it would be pretty hard and stupid to steal it.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/cleantechnica.com/2019/08/08/why-is-a-tesla-so-hard-to-steal/amp/

I am very glad that "cybercriminals" are so DUMB that they will never be able to do this and crack any apps/codes.

Phewwwwwwww, thanks!

 

[Dids]

I am very glad that "cybercriminals" are so DUMB that they will never be able to do this and crack any apps/codes.

Phewwwwwwww, thanks!

Do you have a kill switch on your current vehicle? Its more likely to get stolen then a Tesla which apparantly are among the least stolen vehicles.

 

[Frankenblob]

Do you have a kill switch on your current vehicle? Its more likely to get stolen then a Tesla which apparantly are among the least stolen vehicles.

I have no current concerns because I am sufficiently away from any "concrete jungle" and I do not have the need to rely on computers or the net too much.

But with things becomming MORE insane (A.I.) and lifes actions becomming more REGRESSIVE (I.O.T.) I, as many do, feel things are exposed and vulnerable - despite what "safety factors" certain shills want one to "believe".

One, actually two, of my vehicles CANNOT be hacked by ANY computer and I can live without being grid tied or having internet access.

To each their own.

 

[Luke42]

One, actually two, of my vehicles CANNOT be hacked by ANY computer

Those two vehicles are, however, much easier to hack than a modern vehicle -- assuming said hacker has physical access to it.

My early 2000s Fords were really difficult to hot-wire, because the engine computer wouldn't allow the engine to run without some sort of wireless cryptographic handshake with the key. The metal key was mostly a decoy for the electronic transponder molded into the key's handle. Here's a description of this style of key:
https://www.carandtruckremotes.com/fordkb95.html
This electronic system adds some electronic attack surface area, while greatly reducing the physical attack surface area. Bypassing the physical ignition switch ("hot wiring") just isn't enough to make the vehicle move.

Your M38A-1 can be run without the key much more easily. That's great if you're stuck out in the woods with nothing but a toolbox, your wits, and a full tank of gas -- but it's a lousy setup if you're trying to prevent the vehicle from being operated by a competent thief. It all depends on what you're trying to protect against, I suppose.

Newer cars are only improving on the kind of systems that Ford was designing and selling 15-20 years ago, which is why modern cars are harder to steal. But they also require more book learnin' to maintain.

Tradeoffs. Engineering is full of 'em.

P.S. For my use-case (nerdy midwestern dad), the tradeoffs nearly always work out in favor of newer vehicles. Your use-case can and should drive different choices, though. [shrug]

 

[android04]

In the event that ones EV is "stolen/hijacked..."

What type of kill switch would y'all be lookin at installing - whether store bought - or "home made"? I know some would want to keep their home made kill switches close to their chests, and I repect that.

And is it possible after one jailbroke their EV computer pad could a program be installed that requires a code every start-up then a different one 30 secs INTO the drive to verify user (and if not legit user the car "pulls over and shuts down") and possibly every 1-2-6-12 hours of driving thereafter?

Any suggestions?

Teslas already have an option your can enable called "PIN to Drive" where even if you have a valid keycard/fob/smartphone to let you in the vehicle, it won't let you drive it without your PIN. The keypad to type it in switches positions in the screen every time as well.

Teslas also have the ability to be tracked with the Tesla app on your smartphone. In order to disable this from inside the car, one must type in the Tesla account password.

These and the fact that Teslas are not easy to steal should serve as a deterrent in themselves.

 

[Frankenblob]

Those two vehicles are, however, much easier to hack than a modern vehicle -- assuming said hacker has physical access to it.

My early 2000s Fords were really difficult to hot-wire, because the engine computer wouldn't allow the engine to run without some sort of wireless cryptographic handshake with the key. The metal key was mostly a decoy for the electronic transponder molded into the key's handle. Here's a description of this style of key:
https://www.carandtruckremotes.com/fordkb95.html
This electronic system adds some electronic attack surface area, while greatly reducing the physical attack surface area. Bypassing the physical ignition switch ("hot wiring") just isn't enough to make the vehicle move.

Your M38A-1 can be run without the key much more easily. That's great if you're stuck out in the woods with nothing but a toolbox, your wits, and a full tank of gas -- but it's a lousy setup if you're trying to prevent the vehicle from being operated by a competent thief. It all depends on what you're trying to protect against, I suppose.

Newer cars are only improving on the kind of systems that Ford was designing and selling 15-20 years ago, which is why modern cars are harder to steal. But they also require more book learnin' to maintain.

Tradeoffs. Engineering is full of 'em.

P.S. For my use-case (nerdy midwestern dad), the tradeoffs nearly always work out in favor of newer vehicles. Your use-case can and should drive different choices, though. [shrug]

Interesting, quite a few, prolly most, grease monkeys today are lost without their computer diagnostic electronics (unless the problem is slappin them in the face, i.e. flat tire, dead battery...).

But I find older vehicles easier to maintain, work on and render more difficult to steal.

Plus, the newer "thinking" crowd (or those that require computers to "live their lives") don't want ICE vehicles, particularly those that are long in the tooth, require a little down to earth self-challenging problem solving, elbow grease and a few heavy tools that create muscle and callouses.

Again, each to their own.

 

[Crissa]

All theft is a matter of how much time the thief wants to spend making it go.

-Crissa